Fushimi Inari (Shrine of 10,000 Torii Gates) and the Japanese Festival of Shichi-Go-San

Today we saw lots and lots of Torii gates and cute couples dressed in traditional kimonos.

 Saturday, November 15th

Deidre by the Inari fox, called kitsune, messengers for the Kami (gods).

Alan got up early and went out to find info on the train and subway schedules, while Deidre and I slept in. I am under the weather with a cold, and she was tired from our activities yesterday.  We figured that we could start our activity today at noon. 

The outer Torii gate of Fushimi Inari Shrine. Signs ask visitors to please bow before entering.

Our destination today was a trip to Fushimi Inari. We took a train from Nijo station to Kyoto station, and then transferred to another train to take us to Fushimi Inari. This shrine was literally right across the road from the train station. All three of us masked up for the day, only removing to eat and take pictures. This shrine is at the base of Mount Inari in the outskirts of Kyoto and has trails leading up the mountainside that are covered most of the way by Torii gates. 

Main building of the Fushimi Inari Shrine.

“Inari is the Japanese Kami (deity) of a complex range of things, including rice, prosperity, fertility, agriculture, industry, and success. While often depicted as a female goddess in the context of agriculture, Inari can also be portrayed as a male or androgynous figure depending on the association with different industries like craftsmanship and smithing. Inari is famously associated with foxes (kitsune), which serve as its messengers.”

A trail-side shrine with lots of Torii gates, with prayers written on them for success. 

We weren’t surprised to see many business men in suits, carrying small Torii gates up the mountain to place at the smaller shrines along the way. This was Saturday and a lot of people were at the shrine for various reasons.  Here is a good place to define Torii Gates: “They symbolize the entrance to a sacred place, acting as a symbolic gateway between the human world and the divine realm. It marks a transition from the secular to the sacred, and passing through it is a way to purify oneself before entering a shrine, where spirits or gods reside. Torii are primarily associated with Shinto shrines and have evolved to become an iconic symbol of Japanese culture and religion.”

A mother and son, celebrating the Shichi-Go-San ritual.

Deidre especially wanted to visit a Shinto shrine on this particular day because November 15th, is a Japanese custom called Shichi-Go-San, which means “Seven-Five-Three.” She was hoping to see the families with children, celebrate the rite of passage and festival day for three- and seven-year-old girls, and five-year-old and sometimes three-year-old boys. The families celebrate the growth and well-being of their young children. There were a few families there with their children dressed up in traditional kimono and looking so very cute.  

Now the father is taking a picture of the mother and son. 

Around the base of the shrine there was various buildings. One was an outdoor Noh Theatre, and we just missed a performance and hoped that there would be one on the way back from our hike. But we returned to the base of the mountain around 5 p.m., at sunset, and the shops and activities were closing up. 

We hit the trail, with the goal of completing the loop in 3 hours. It was 4 km, or 2 1/2 miles. 

At one little shrine on the way up, Deidre stopped to buy an “ema” which looks like a fox’s face on the other side. It is a prayer you write out for Inari to see and grant. Top line was Deidre’s prayer for good health. Second, was her name in Japanese (she realized later that she accidentally spelled her name "Deitora" instead of "Deidora") and third was the date. 

Deidre placing her “ema” on the wall of wishes.

Deidre also bought a goshuincho from the shrine to put in her stamp book.

“A goshuincho is, literally, an honorable stamp/seal book used by people visiting shrines or temples.”

At about the Yotsutsuji intersection, the trail splits to make a loop, and you can see panoramic views of Kyoto from there. This was where I stopped and waited for Alan and Deidre, because I was having a hard time breathing through my mask with a cold. Deidre really wanted to finish the trail, so she and Alan pushed on and got it done!

Penni and Alan on the Inari trail.

There was one point, before Deidre and Alan left me to finish the trail, where we went off the regular trail to a viewpoint that oversees Kyoto. These were better views than the ones at the Yotsutsuji intersection. 

Deidre’s Japanese-style selfie!

Alan and Penni overlooking Kyoto from the Inari trail. 

Alan and his typical victory stance!

It was after this Alan and Deidre left me, and finished the trail. 

Penni on the Inari trail.

More kimono clad visitors.

We took the train home around 5 p.m. as the sun went down, and Deidre went to rest in her room, while Alan and I made a trip to Life Grocery, for some more meds for me and some dinner and breakfast for all of us. No new food for me today… I’m not feeling up to it!