Ginkakuji (Temple of the Silver Pavilion), The Philosopher’s Path, and the Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design

The Silver Pavilion.

Tuesday, November 18th

Another view of the Silver Pavilion.

I am feeling better after two days of rest in the hotel room. I still have a cough and will wear my mask everywhere we go today. Deidre will be staying in her hotel room for a rest day. This schedule seems to be working for her. 

Closeup of a turtle stone.

Today, Alan and I rode the subway east from Nijo station to Sanjo station and then took the train north to Demachiyanagi station. We then walked outside and found a bus stop close by to travel east to Ginkakuji Temple.

Penni on the Stepping Stones of Kojin.

But before we got onto the bus, Alan showed me where the stepping stones with the turtle shapes were located on the river Kamo, and I got to hop across them. I truly didn’t want to miss a step because it was a cold day out today--mid-40s and a brisk breeze--so we were bundled up. Up to this point we have had 60-degree weather without any wind; it’s been lovely. 

First views of the garden, Kinkyochi Pond and Senninsu Island.

After hopping across the river, we resumed our walk to the bus stop and waited with the crowd going to Ginkakuji Temple; it was standing room only on the bus. 

The Kogetsudai, the “Moon Viewing Mound” made of gravel.

The Ginshadan, “Sea of Silver Sand.”

The Temple grounds are very beautiful. They are used to big crowds here, tour bus-sized crowds, so they kept us on a path in a circular motion through the gardens. Alan and I paid for our tickets and followed the line. This was Alan’s highlight of the trip so far; he loved the incredible beauty of these gardens. 

Groundskeeper sweeping up leaves off the mossy ground.

I was tired after traveling an hour to get there, so I stopped at a point where the path goes up the hill and loops around back and down and waited for Alan to finish. While waiting, I observed the groundskeepers doing meticulous clean-up of the falling leaves. They literally sweep up the leaves every day off of the moss-covered ground and prune the pine needles off the trees with tweezers!

Penni waiting by a little shrine in the garden.

“Ginkakuji has been a World Heritage Site since 1994. The Temple itself was begun in 1482 as a retirement villa for Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the 8th Shogun of the Muromachi era (1336-1573). This elegant mountain retirement home was inspired by his grandfather’s home, the Golden Pavilion. Under Yoshimasa’s rule the villa became the center of Higashiyama culture, an important movement that gave rise to many of the aesthetic ideals that have influenced traditional Japanese culture ever since.”  I’d like to find out more about what influences they are talking about. 

Alan by Sengetsusen Waterfall, which is only a trickle right now. 

Climbing the path upward to hillside views. Beautiful bamboo railings.

The Silver Pavilion from the hillside.

“At Yoshimasa’s request, the villa was converted to a temple after his death and renamed Jishoji from Yoshimasa’s Buddhist name, Jishoin.” You can see that some of the trees have started to turn colors, but the peak fall colors will be in early December, later than ours.

Highest point of Temple gardens, views of Kyoto and distant mountains. 

We headed next to the Philosopher’s Path, which is a path that follows a cherry-tree lined canal in Kyoto. It was first opened in 1890, and was extended in 1912. It must be very beautiful in the springtime. We were heading to the Museum of Crafts and Design. This canal headed south towards the area where the art museums and zoo were located. 

The Philosopher’s Path.

Huge Torii gate near cultural center of Kyoto. (Not sure who owned the pink bunny bus, maybe a preschool?)

The Kyoto City Zoo, we could hear the happy voices of children as we passed by. 

When we first walked into the Museum of Crafts and Design, a lady welcomed us and asked us to fill out a form with our name, address, email address, cell phone, etc. I was confused and thought that was strange for going into a museum. Then I asked her where we pay, and she said it was free. 

Two rows of Samurai Armor.

You could buy this armor for 250 million yen, or 1.6 million USD.

Backside of the above armor.

Then she explains we were entering a silent auction room, with many samurai artifacts on sale, and that we could leave our bids with her. I laughed, and said, “no, we wont be able to bid on anything, but could we look around?” And she said, “yes.”  

Bow in two parts with arrows.

Beautiful wall hanging painting.

I could see from the doorway, it looked like a history museum. There were two rows of samurai armor and tables of weapons, and then lots of wall hangings with paintings. 

Lacquered and gilded cabinet. Part of an exhibit on lacquerware.

Braid making

When we were done looking around at the auction, we discovered that the museum we originally came for was on the lower level. So we went downstairs and paid our 500 yen fee and entered. It was only one large room with exhibits on the history of crafts made in Kyoto. 

A gilded, child-sized palanquin, or sedan chair.

A Samurai doll usually gifted to boys on May 5th, a festival called “Tango no Sekku,” dedicated specifically to celebrating boys, but now is an official holiday known as “Children’s Day” focused on the happiness and health of all children. 

Bamboo Table

Bamboo Couch

It was very interesting as each exhibit broke the processes down into steps. There was Buddha carving, doll making, wooden barrels and wood caskets (smaller barrels), silk weaving, silk printing, lacquerware, gilding, braid making, and so much more. Seeing the work behind the art, made it so much more valuable and interesting.

Since we had traveled a couple of miles south to the museum, we were able to catch the subway line back to Nijo station without any connections. Deidre was rested, and we enjoyed visiting for the evening.